House lines and pool lines both, traced with equipment. And two free tests, told to you before anything is booked, that answer half the question at no cost.
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A pool that is dropping is the call we get most often out here, and it is also the one where people most often spend money before they need to. There are two tests you can run yourself, both free, and between them they answer most of what a first visit would.
The first separates evaporation from a leak. Fill a bucket with pool water and stand it on a step so it is partly submerged, which means bucket and pool are exposed to identical weather. Mark both levels, leave it a day or two with the pump running as usual, and compare. Equal drop is evaporation. A bigger drop in the pool is water going somewhere else.
The second narrows where. Watch it for a day with the pump running and a day with it off. Worse while running points at the pressure side, meaning the return lines. Worse with it off points at the suction side. That is a genuinely large amount of information for two days of doing nothing.
After that, it is equipment: pressure testing the suction and return lines and locating the failure. That part is pipework, and it is the same discipline as finding a leak under a house. What we do not do is shells, structural cracking, chemistry or filtration equipment. Those belong to a pool builder and a pool shop and we will tell you so rather than take the job.


Two days of doing nothing tells you whether there is anything to find. Ring us after that, not before.
Evaporation depends on weather, wind, surface area and whether it is covered.
A falling level is a starting point rather than a conclusion.
Partly submerged on a step, so both are in the same conditions.
That is the whole trick, and it is why the test works.
Worse while running means the pressure side. Worse when off means the suction side.
Two days, no cost, and the search halves.
Skimmer throat, shell fittings, light niche, and the buried lines with their joints.
The lines are the part that is plumbing rather than pool maintenance.
Everything off, and a creeping smallest dial means water is genuinely leaving.
That test is free too, and it is worth doing before booking anything.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Water stopped and the situation stabilised, at any hour.
Suction and return tested separately, which is what makes the result useful.
Marked in position and depth, so any repair is targeted.
Acoustic, pressure and thermal, with nothing opened to find it.
Depending on the pipe, the material and how it has to be reached.

On a pool, the bucket and the pump-on-pump-off comparison. There is no point paying us to find out what two days will tell you.

Pool suction and return lines pressure tested separately, or acoustic, pressure and thermal inside the house.

Position and depth, so whatever happens next is targeted rather than exploratory.

What failed, where, and what it took, at the figure agreed before we started.
Shut it off at the meter and ring. A licensed plumber can be heading toward you while you are still on the call.
Call 1300 381 569
What Killara locals ask us before booking a plumber.
Ask us yours
The bucket test, and it costs nothing. Fill a bucket with pool water and stand it on a step so it is partly submerged, so both are exposed to the same weather. Mark the level inside the bucket and the pool level outside it. Leave both a day or two with the pump running normally, then compare. Equal drop means evaporation and a healthy pool. A bigger drop in the pool means water is leaving somewhere.
Watch the loss with the pump running for a day, then with it off for a day. If it is worse while the pump runs, the pressure side is the suspect, which means the return lines. If it is worse with the pump off, the suction side is. Either answer narrows things enormously before any equipment comes out.
The skimmer throat, the fittings where lines pass through the shell, the light niche, and the buried suction and return lines and their joints. The lines are the part that is genuinely a plumber's work, because finding a leak in a buried pressure line is exactly the same discipline as finding one under a house.
For chemistry, filtration and equipment, yes, and we will say so. For a leak in a buried pressure or suction line, no. That is pipework, it is pressure tested and located the same way any other buried line is, and it is our work rather than theirs.
We do not resurface shells, repair structural cracking in them, or work on pool chemistry and filtration equipment. Those belong to a pool builder and a pool shop, and we would rather say that plainly than take the job and hand it back.
Turn the water off at the meter before anything else, then ring. How much a burst costs is largely decided by how long the supply stayed on.
Pressure testing pool lines is $300 to $600. Locating a leak in a buried pool line is $350 to $700. Locating a concealed house leak is $250 to $600. A burst repair is $300 to $900.
If it is the pool, tell us what the bucket test showed and whether the loss changes with the pump. If you have not done either, we will talk you through them rather than book a visit.
Free tests first, equipment second, and honest about what is not our work.
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